Bahamas Out Island News

Unlike its neighbor, Nassau, the largely undeveloped island of Andros moves 10 the tune of Gilligan.

The Small Hope Bay Lodge has the feel of a family home. Which makes sense, considering its original structure was built in the 1960s by Dick Birch, a Canadian vacationing (and thawing) with his family on Andros, in the Bahamas. He then set about. constructing more cottages out of local coral and pine, added an outdoor dining lounge-and-game-room area, and, for good measure, made sure everything had a sweeping view of the sea. With seven children of his own, he had a pretty good idea that the largely undeveloped island's natural blessings-more than 100 miles of beaches, pine forests filled with exotic birds, 140 miles of reef-would provide all the diversions any family could want.

To this day, a stay here is a decidedly rustic experience. Night life, theme parks, and schlocky tourist shops are nonexistent. on the island, and Small Hope makes a big point of keeping things simple (there are no TVs, phones, or clocks in the rooms). Instead,
the all-inclusive resort focuses on offering enough snorkeling, diving, and boating expeditions to occupy a week. Even the youngest snorkelers will appreciate the shoals of glittering groupers, snappers, and triggerfish that surround the spectacular underwater barrier reef (the third largest in the world). Serious divers can explore the mysterious shipwrecks and the pre-Ice Age beach 185 feet below sea level. Small Hope will also arrange for family reef fishing expeditions (kids 4 and up can learn to cast a line), a guided walk along the island's eco-trails, or a full-day exploration of its wilder eastern coast:. Andros is crosshatched with creeks and magical, stalagmite-covered watering holes (called "blue holes") where you can swim, and the island is encircled by a white sand beach. At the end of the day, there's the promise of a fiery sunset (best viewed from a hammock), the possibility of a barbecue, and the certainty of a blissful night's sleep for your entire sun-kissed family.

ANDROS

GETTING THERE
Continental Connection offers direct flights (about an hour) from Fort Lauderdale to Andros Town Airport; the schedule changes seasonally. Taxis for the 10-minute drive to the hotel are readily available at the airport and cost around $18.

WHEN TO VISIT
While December to April are considered high season, temperatures in the northern Bahamas are almost always between 70 and 85 degrees. Summer is the rainy season, which translates into a few minutes of afternoon showers. The only time of year you might want to avoid the island is hurricane season, August through October.

THE HOTEL
Small Hope Bay Lodge Each of the 1] cottages is roomy, is decorated in bright batik fabric and vintage nautical posters, and has its own bathroom and a view of the sea. Families are best off reserving one of the four two-room cottages; they all contain two double beds (which can be combined to make king beds). While the hotel is quite comfortable, its low-key charm means no luxurious soaps or shampoos (so bring your
own), no in-room refrigerators (although the staff will provide coolers), and no
bathtubs (to conserve water- but there are showers).

Babysitters are complimentary during dinner and can be hired at other times as well. From $209 a night per adult in low season to $229 a night per adult in high season, all-inclusive (kids ages 2 to 12 stay for $95 each and kids under 2 stay free year-round; special children's rates, weekly packages, and dive packages vary), (800) 223-6961 or smallhope.com.

THE ACTIVITIES
The beach The shore near the hotel is broad and long enough that even in high season, you won't be sardined with other sunbathers. The crescents are lined with palm trees and dotted with chaises to lounge in. The water is dear, and the surrounding reef ensures that the surf is calm. Diving and snorkeling Small Hope Bay Lodge will fire up a boat whenever guests want to head out to the reef (a few minutes' ride) for a dive or a snorkel. The lodge also organizes three one-hour dives daily, as well as night dives, shark dives, and one-on-one specialty dives for adults and kids over 10. It provides introductory scuba lessons and SASY equipment (beginner scuba gear) for children 5 and up.

Fishing
While Andros is a hot spot for fast-paced bonefishing (best for avid fishermen), the slower-paced reef fishing is also top-notch and ideal for young children, who can learn to spin, cast, and reel in (and release) their own little Nemos and Dorys on a family outing led by a Small Hope guide.

Eco-trips and nature trails Take the half-day tour, organized through the hotel. Or walk through the dense pine forest at your own pace, following the island's well-marked trails, and taking swimming and picnic breaks at two freshwater "blue holes" along the way.

THE FOOD
Small Hope Bay Lodge Food and drink are included in the daily hotel rate, and the fare is tastier than the usual all inclusive stuff. Breakfast features an array of American standards (cereal, pancakes, omelets) as well as a traditional Bahamian breakfast (an outstanding sardine salad on grits. for instance).

Lunch is served buffet-style, and dinner is a relaxed affair, often eaten on oceanside picnic tables. From 6 to 8:45 P.M., kids can eat and play, supervised by babysitters. in the game room (complete with a Ping Pong table),giving parents a little alone time to sample the locally caught fish and potent cocktails.

Taste & Sea Restaurant Go for the conch fritters and the peas and rice (Bahamian for beans and rice) at this laid-back patio restaurant, worth skipping your free hotel meal for at least once. The restaurant's gregarious co-owner, Cinderella, is likely to pop open a root beer and tell you about the island while you eat. Love Hill, (242) 368-2890.

THE SHOPPING
Androsia Batik Factory Workers at this small plant hand-produce incredible (and incredibly inexpensive) batik cloth and sarongs. Visitors can watch the waxing and dyeing process in action, or take a lesson themselves for $25 each. (242) 368-2020 or androsia.com.

GOOD TO KNOW
Money The official currency is the Bahamian dollar, but u.s. dollars are accepted everywhere. There are no ATMs on the island, so bring some cash to spend on the few extras not covered in Small Hope's allinclusive rate.

Transportation Don't bother renting a car, since there's little need to stray from the resort. You can take the occasional cab ride or grab a bike (they're free for guests) to check out the other parts of the island.

Communication Most international cell phones work. Small Hope has a computer with Internet access in the office.